Saturday, June 21, 2014

Trail Towns

While the time we spend walking along the Pacific Crest Trail is all thru hikers main focus, a very important part of the journey is the towns we stop in to resupply. Each place we stop is unique and wonderful. I have been impressed by the way many of these communities have opened there doors to a group of dirty vagabonds.
While I was well taken care of in Lake Morena, Mt Laguna, and the Mountain Valley Retreat, I was especially impressed with the effort made by the people of Warner Springs. In past years thru hikers would stay at the resort, receive packages there, and shop at the resort store. Since the resort closed, the only places left in town are the post office and community center. The people who live there have put together a make shift store with food items hikers want, sell breakfast and burgers out of the kitchen, and let hikers camp on the community center lawn for free. I could feel that the community really cares about the hikers who walk through their town.

The next PCT resupply stop is in the mountain town of Idyllwild. In Idyllwild I found sculptures lining the streets, cozy cabins for rent, and an organic food store that gives a free bag of trail mix and a 10% discount to all PCT hikers who shop there. 
It was deliscious trail mix and I want to find more like it! I also liked the painted deer, they reminded me of the christmas pigs in Seattle. The people of Idyllwild were very welcoming to the thru hikers. I had a woman stop me in the grocery store parking lot to ask me if I am a PCT hiker, and then pulled a bag of home made cookies out of her purse for me! 

After our first high altitude hiking and long hot dry stretches we come to Big Bear City and Big Bear Lake. These are both ski towns with multiple options for lodging and shopping. Many hikers end up at the well run Big Bear Hostel. The owner shuttles hikers to and from the trail, picks hikers up from the towns urgent care clinic, and often drives us to the grocery store. He impressed me as loving what he does and enjoying the interactions he has with the many hikers who stay at his hostel. It was a comfortable place that would be easy to stay at for many days and some do. We call this type of place a vortex because of the way it sucks hikers in. 

Shortly after leaving Big Bear, hikers begin talking about the Mac Donalds at Cajon Pass. Food is a frequent topic of conversation on the trail. We torture ourselves with thoughts of ice cream, fresh fruit, and any food that is not dehydrated. It was amusing to walk into Mac Donalds and see the palce crowded with smelly hikers and their large packs. 
More amusing was the confused look of the faces of travelers stoping for a bite to eat on their drive over the pass. I think we look like a convention of homeless people. 

A very dry 27 miles after Cajon pass is the cozy town of Wrightwood. I could have stayed here a week. Just as in Warner Springs and Idyllwild, I felt both welcome and wanted. The grocery store even had a display just for us hikers with our favorite foods. 
Every one in Wrightwood was friendly and helpful. People stopped me in the street to ask me how my hike is going, the hardware store accepts packages for hikers, and the town has put together a list of people you can call for a ride or a
place to stay if you are short on cash. 

Leaving Wrightwood was tough. I dragged my feet leaving, and on the way out I had the pleasure of meeting the local fourth graders. 
They were at the Grassy Hollow picnic area for a school field trip and the teacher asked if the kids could interview me. I was impressed by the questions they asked. One girl asked how I pay for my food if I am not working, others wanted to know what my treking poles were for, why my pack was so much smaller than my friend's, what I eat since I don't have a stove (why my pack is smaller) and how long Thor has been traveling with me. I could have enjoyed chatting with them all day, but had miles to walk before I could sleep. 

Agua Dulce is a bedroom community outside of LA that has a grocery store, two cafes, and a pizza place. It is also where the Sauffleys live. Donna and Jeff are amazing Trail Angels. Trail Angels and the wonderful work they do for us will get it's own blog post soon. 

After Agua Dulce, my next stop was the very odd Hiker Town. It is not a town as much as a local entrepreneur offering a service to hikers. He has many old trailers and western movie sets that can be rented for $10 a night, or you can set up your tent in the dusty shadeless yard for free. 
The place has a lot if charm and potential, but was a bit run down and dirty when I was there. It is a critical stop for all thru hikers as it is where we prep for the infamous LA Aqueduct walk. Most hikers night hike this dry 17 mile shadless waterless stretch along the aqueduct. We appreciate a place to tank up on water and nap in the shady garage or movie sets before hiking out at sunset. 

At the end of the LA aqueduct is a series of wind farms and then the charming city of Tehachapi. Similar to Wrightwood, there is a list of Trail Angels that a hiker can call for help getting to and from town. The local transit company is very accommodating to hikers. If you call, they will have the driver make a special stop to pick up PCT hikers headed into town. 
I found excellent food in Tehachapi and felt rested and ready for the difficult hike toward Walker pass and the small cities of Lake Isabella and Onyx. 

To get into town from Walker Pass, a PCT hiker must hitchhike. I get nervous hitchhiking so always find myself a buddy for this mode of travel. It helps that hundreds of hikers have hitched from this same spot before me and that the locals know all about PCT hikers. Everyone who has give me and my hiking buddies a ride has been incredibly generous going out of their way to drive us to where we are going and tolerating our stench if they pick us up on our way into town. I find that my 'hiker to town' bandanna helps differentiate me from the other vagabonds hitchiking up the west coast. 

 My ride from Walker pass dropped me off at the Onyx Store where I was able to get ice cream and a soda while waiting for the bus that would take me to Lake Isabella. I was very impressed by this small country store's selection of gourmet sodas. I was in heaven and have found some new favorites.
Both towns are primarily farming and military, an interesting mix. 

Kennedy Meadows is where we celebrate the end of the desert and prepare for the next step in our journey, the Sierra Mts. All hikers stop here. Most pick up their bear cannisters that are required in the National Parks at the Kennedy Meadows store. There is no actual town here, but a store, resturant/bar, and a Trail Angel who helps hikers out with an internet connection (there is zero cellular service here). Many hikers find Kennedy Meadows to be a vortex, but I was anxious to continue on into the Sierras so stayed just long enough to receive my new boots that were shipped there. 

I am currently hanging out in Lone Pine. I will spend more time here than the other trail towns as I get everything ready for the next 220 miles with my sister Jennifer. I have an incredible view of the Sierras from my room while I sort and pack for the next leg of this incredible journey.

Trail towns are necessary, but everywhere more than one tent is set up, there becomes a small transient town of hikers who are instantly your neighbors and friends.








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